Respect the ocean... (1 Viewer)

[Atticus.]

today was one fucked up experience
i was that close to being in some serious
trouble in the surf today...
you may have heard this on the news

the swell hit last night and this morning it was 8 to 10ft at sandon point, all the
other places were maxed out so we hit this place called, "the shittest wave in the
world" in Woonoona in Wollongong which doesnt break untill it gets really big everywhere else making it only 3 or 4 ft. anyways i went to jump off the rocks and i got washed back onto them
for 50 or so metres over this rock shelf. i smashed my elbow and head and put a
slice in my wetty and scractched the hell out of my board. anyways, i jumped
back out there and withing ten mins, myself, and some friends had been
washed at least a kilometre out to sea and a kilometre down the beach... that
end of the beach where we were swept has no protection from the swell so it
was an easy 10ft. the scary thing was that the waves were still breaking in such
deep water, and they were really powerful... so we sat out there going further
and further down the beach untill we made the call to swim in a bit and try and
get a small one all the way in...
lucky we did because the next set was huge... an easy 12 ft bomb and it was
death... we all rode this one to the beach and got obliterated in a 6ft shorey...
we walked all the way back up the beach and this young bloke was about to get
in on a bodyboard... we spoke to him and told him it was intense and there was no point trying... he went out anyway after we got out

the SES helicopters had to rescue him and resuciate him on the chopper... he is
in hospital now and thats all i know...
i wish i was exxagerating the story i really wish i was...
im sitting here spooked as all hell, with an all new respect for the ocean...

other mates of mine, all surfed in a different spot and all have come back
with really bad cuts all over their legs... my elbow is bruised but ok... just stiff...
its just my confidence thats all over the place now... i thought i had the ocean
wired............. i definatly do not

best wishes to the kid... and just a warning to everyone about the ocean... dont ever think your better than it... even if you are really experienced in bigger stuff...

 

[mmm_sofay]

its spelt wonoona.
i used to surf noona beach every week when i was younger, but yeah, it does get pretty crazy in storms.
i was actually at south last year, after/during a storm, and it was fair big, around 6ft, and i went out, even tho i was still worn out from a kidney infections and antibiotics and painkillers. man, that was a bad day.

best wishes to the young lad.

 

[Atticus.]

new updates are hazy... ive now heard that the kid is critical and also that he is stable... no idea whats going on

 

[mmm_sofay]

how do u know about his condition?

 

[Atticus.]

how do u know about his condition?

the radio...

 

[mmm_sofay]

oooooohhhhhhhhhhkkkk

 

[katietheskatie]

wow, lucky you guys made it out okay. i saw some of the surf you guys have been getting down there the past couple of days on the news, that's crazy. it was a lot bigger than usual up here today, but still closeout-ish as port always tends to be. i didn't go out.

 

[Atticus.]

wow, lucky you guys made it out okay. i saw some of the surf you guys have been getting down there the past couple of days on the news, that's crazy. it was a lot bigger than usual up here today, but still closeout-ish as port always tends to be. i didn't go out.

yeh well the guy is definatly ok... the swell is supposed to be on the drop which is good... im heading out to sandon point 2morrow morning at 6... it should be really good.... im the bodyboarder with the white board and black fins.
id be lying though if i said i wasnt spooking out a little though

 

[mmm_sofay]

i drove past south and norht beaches today.
fucking insane.
the reef break at north was messy as.
and ive never seen such consistant sets at north beach in ages.
altho, whalebone had some pretty good waves, wouldnt have surfed it tho.
but i saw 2 bodyboarders at the harbour, and it looked as tho they were going to go out to whalebone.
and i saw three surfers at north beach, and they seem to be getting far... they looked to be just paddling in the same spot, not really going foward.
i dont know why they were trying, it was messy as.

 

[Atticus.]

just got back from sandon point and it was fucking smoking! its dropped down to 6ft but now its totally workable...
but my fucking god who left the gate open? there would have been 70 odd people there by 8.00
we got there at 6.20 and it was me some mates and three others... within 40 mins there would have been 50 out! so frustrating

 

[um..]

fuck thats pretty heavy dude.

i can imagine sandon would have been going off. i wish i hadnt have had such a big night last night, the early on some of the reef breaks round here would have been awesome. i went for a paddle just now but its too crowded and im too hungover

hope the kid gets ok

 

[slip]

we were bodyboarding at newy today. me and mate only had one flipper each cause he forgot his so lent him one. it was fucking impossible to get out, then eventually we managed to swim around the rocks that start shark ally, caught a rip and before out and then we ended up 200m out, about fifty meters from the rocks at the baths(the total oppisite end of the beach), and all the waves were breaking that way, it was nearly impossible to get back in. my mate from america thought we were gonna be heading in in a rubber ducky in a couple of minutes.

i cant believe you got washed a kilometer out, was it a reef break or sank band or a point break(sounded like a point break)

 

[um..]

if you'd jumped of the back of the baby pool you would have been straight out to the back and not had to worry about the rip