CAD/CAM & Decorative Techniques Assessment (1 Viewer)

Eliza B

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CAD/CAM Machines

New machinery that improves construction and saves time are the CAD/CAM machines. CAD has revolutionized the design process, introducing a sense of three-dimensional space into a two-dimenial design and bringing with it a whole new visual aesthetics. CAD stands for Computer Aided Design while CAM is Computer Aided Manufacturer. The CAD machinery has made the designing process a lot easier. It allows for pattern development and grading patterns of different sizes and cutting stimulation's. It also allows colour ways to be changed quickly, in less than half the time it takes by hand. With CAD, fabric can be scanned on, its colours changed and then reprinted onto paper. This innovation allows everyone of the design team to physically view how the design will look

In design work, computers are an invaluable tool; users have the ability to produce more colour ways, increase sales, save time and have the capacity to quickly produce top quality, finished artworks. Designer can now use the CAD system to alter features of their design.
Some of the benefits of the CAD system are saved time and money which helps to expand the designers creativity.

The CAD machinery has become an essential tool for printed fabric design. Professional CAD systems offer designers more advanced accessibility's with these programs. Bitmap can be turned into postscript (which is dots onto smooth curves) and artwork can be coloured separately. This saves time and money in artwork costs. An example of a company that uses CAD is Mambo. Mambo uses multiple print separation. Their system completes colour separation and prepares screens for each colour in the print.

With this new innovation, re-skilling is needed for designers to work with computers. There is also a growing acceptance of CAD. Industries are now training talented, young designers in courses aimed to develop their skills in these computer programs.

Computer Aided Design (CAD) has a direct linkage to the manufacturing process (CAM). These two pieces of machinery have so far impacted upon two distinct areas of the clothing industry; the grading, marking and cutting of patterns and fabrics prior to stitching, and creative fabric and garment design.

The CAM system makes the planning happen with a computer link between the design system and the cutting system. Multiple layers of fabric may now be cut after the computer program has positioned the pieces of fabric, in the most cost effective way. This automatic cutting offers many benefits in the form of reduced labour, stocks, space and fabric wastage but remains expensive, at up to several hundred thousand dollars per unit and therefore only accessible in the past to larger companies.


Decorative techniques to enhance design

Pressing is a finishing technique that remains a labour intensive 'craft' skill in many areas of the clothing industry and yet has a critical impact upon the final quality and value of the garment. Current technology developments are aimed at reducing processing times while improving performance and consistency of this operation. Ergonomic redesign of workstations by leading manufacturers is leading to the introduction of microprocessor controlled suction and central control units, variable height and table configuration mechanisms.

Garment Dyeing as another technique that is currently experiencing considerable growth in Europe. Much of the recent boost in garment dyeing came from the fashion for a 'washed' look in denims and faded, creased cottons. Before that, demand for fashion colouration of casual knitwear was one of the major driving forces of this technique.

Where patterned designs are to be applied to a fabric or garment other than by colour weaving, knitting or cross-dyeing techniques, most conventional printing technologies are limited in their application to flat surfaces. The only exceptions are where 2-dimensional sections of made-up garments can be presented to a printing head for application of localised block, stencil, screen or transfer prints.

Digital textile printing is one of the most exciting new technologies to reach the textile industry for a number of years. It enables designs to be printed directly onto cloth by means of ink jet or other methods, thus eliminating the need for screens, plates or films. This means that short runs of unique, individualised fabric designs become a quick, practical and cost effective reality. Digital Textile Printing meant that computers have had a tremendous impact on the printed textile industry during the last ten years, allowing designers to develop innovative ideas. Colourists have been able to view trend setting colourations and
engravers to check separations prior to engraving.

Digital textile printing is slowly being introduced in to all sectors of the industry. Converters can now see their designs on fabric before making any production decisions and printers can produce samples, for their customers, without having to engrave screens, which is an extremely time consuming and expensive process. The consumable cost of producing a square yard of digitally printed fabric is in the range of $15 - $50, the majority of this amount being due to the high costs of preparing, backing and winding the rolls of fabric. Some companies such as DPInnovations, have addressed this issue by developing a fabric handling system, which can be attached to any printer, allowing the customer to use their own fabric.

An immediate benefit of this type of technology is in the strike-off or sampling area. Designs can be printed on to fabric for review and possible modification without incurring the high costs associated with engraving screens. However, this requires sophisticated production simulation software to match colour, style and technique, as though it had been printed conventionally.

The more digital printers increase in speed and performance the greater the amount of production fabrics which will be produced digitally. An example of this is with today's technology, one hundred unique square yard silk scarves could be produced, in less than a week, for less than $ 50 per scarf. This development will have a tremendous impact on the printed textile industry, development costs will be reduced, small runs will be cost effective and perhaps most importantly, there will be an opportunity for companies to develop a new innovative style of printed fabric.
 

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