CPU temperature (1 Viewer)

[Ragerunner]

I got a P4 2.0GHz

How much you think i can o/c it to without any potential damage?

2.5?

Doubt i will do it though. I had to remove one of my fans because it made a weird noise that can be heard from upstairs.

 

[Huy]

Originally posted by Ragerunner
I got a P4 2.0GHz
How much you think i can o/c it to without any potential damage?
2.5?

It sounds like a first generation P4.

1.6 - 2GHz range.

I don't think you'll even surpass 2.1 or 2.2G.
(I assume you are using a 2.0A CPU)

The best oc'ing chip is the 2.4C
The higher up you go, the more "value" is wasted.

e.g. 2.6C, 2.8C or 3.0C
You wont get as much out of them as you would in a 2.4C, in terms of getting more bang for your buck.

 

[-X-]

Originally posted by Ragerunner
http://www16.big.or.jp/~bunnywk/ln2/ln2_e.html

I'm gonna so do that after my hsc.

lol, u need a license to be able to buy LN2 and something to store it in which costs HEAPS.

HUY: So do TBRED B's, mine goes to 2400+ (from 1800+) with shity stock cooling and rock stable. Their also .13 micron.

 

[Huy]

Originally posted by -X-
HUY: So do TBRED B's, mine goes to 2400+ (from 1800+) with shity stock cooling and rock stable. Their also .13 micron.

Yep, won't disagree with you there, but I don't (heavily) rely on what I read, but I will agree with you, because I haven't ever owned an AMD CPU in my life

I can't wait for 0.09u!
(the u is supposed to be the mu symbol for micron)

/edit
I'm pooped
Night guys

 

[Jeo]

hey so if i buy a 2.4, I can overclock it to 3.3?

and whats the survival rate etc etc and is it really 3.3?

 

[Ragerunner]

You'd probably still be some proper cooling if you were to do that.

Like watercooling.

 

[Frigid]

from what i know (from Dan Rutter), if a hot CPU doesn't crash all the time, then it's fine. although the maximum suggested temp of the Athlon is 75 degrees, just because it goes up to 76 degrees doesn't mean the core is gonna fry, fizzle and pop. nonetheless, if u are very concerned, then i would recommend the following:

• Get a soft brush and brush off the dust from the vent holes of your case. Open up your case and brush the dust off the bottom and various dusty places (watch out for static damage though).
• Remove your CPU HSF fan by screwdriver. Brush dust of that. If you feel like it, oil the fan's bearings with sewing-machine oil and let it dry. Once dry and cleaned, replace into heatsink by screwdriver. Do the same for casefans.
• Upgrade the number of casefans and blowholes in your case. This helps a lot, especially near the CPU/videocard area.
• Upgrade your CPU HSF to a better one. Buy a copper heatsink and a big fan for it... if you can't put up with the noise, check out Zalman products.
• Upgrade to water-cooling, much more efficient that air. Although it requires some 1337 sk33lz, the results are by-far better.
• If your motherboard supports it, use the power-saving modes... this will automatically put your CPU to bed when you're idle from comp and hopefully cool down your rig.

worst comes to worst, remove side panels, stick big phat household fan and set to max level!!!

but seriously, if it doesn't crash all the time, then it's 'cool' enough.

 

[Ragerunner]

Originally posted by Frigid
from what i know (from Dan Rutter), if a hot CPU doesn't crash all the time, then it's fine.[/size]

Actually its not. It's fine for the time being but you will greatly reduce the CPU life.

If you want to visualise Frigid's last cooling method. Here it is

 

[Frigid]

Originally posted by Ragerunner
Actually its not. It's fine for the time being but you will greatly reduce the CPU life.

sif we use our CPU's for more than 3 years anyway...

nice piccie but.

 

[Winston]

You do know the temperature in the BIOS displayed for your CPU or third party windows applications cannot actually accurately detect the core temp of the CPU, so you shouldn't be too much worried, sometimes if you see it slightly over, as the readings aren't even accurate.

 

[jm1234567890]

yeah, my computer never crashes.

it should be fine

 

[Huy]

Originally posted by Jesh
hey so if i buy a 2.4, I can overclock it to 3.3?
and whats the survival rate etc etc and is it really 3.3?

It depends on the batch itself (check FPO numbers/serials).
When the P4 2.4C's came out, Abit did some testing on it and overclockers (worldwide) jumped at it. I don't know if you'll be able to overclock it to 3.3GHz like I have, as I purchased this CPU, memory and mainboard combination 6 months ago (almost).

The multiplier will be locked at 12.0, so you would be able to increase the frequencies to 250, 270, or 275. (Default value: 200).
This way, you will receive:

From
2400MHz (200*12)

To
3300MHz (275*12)

Anywhere in-between:

270*12 = 3240
or 3.24GHz

You will need either, but not limited to:

* A new HSF, I have a Thermaltake
* Ceramic compound/thermal compound on your CPU, about $12
* Possibly a new case, which includes a larger fan in-take.

If you don't know what you're doing, then don't overclock.
2.4GHz is fine using a stock HSF and 'standard' case, as this is the rated clock speed, any higher (overclocking) and it's not "their" fault what happens to it.

I have a 120mm fan, came with my Antec Sonata case.
I'm using a Thermaltake HSF
And I have overclocked my 2.4GHz to 3.3GHz

Also, make sure you purchase an Abit IC7 or Asus P4P800 (I believe ae, another BOS member has the same mainboard, and the same CPU as I do, 2.4C - overclocked to 3GHz).

Yes, it is really 3.3GHz.
I can unzip, compress, encode files very speedily
Ripping a dvd to encoding a film to xvid is relatively fast, compared to other systems.

But I should warn you,
If you don't have the proper case, mainboard or heatsink/fans, or even if you don't know how to apply the thermal compound, then I do not recommend that you try and overclock a retail/boxed 2.4C.

 

[Ragerunner]

Or else your gonna have fried CPU for dinner.

 

[Soliah]

Where are you getting those temperature readings? Bios? Third party software - perhaps Sandra? Is that under heavy load (100% CPU use) or normal use?

I dislike taking temps from software or the bios as these can be rather inaccurate, depending on your motherboard (Abit especially). I rather use a trained finger on the heatsink.

The weather has been rather hot in the past few days too, and it's only going to get hotter so I'd probably do a reseating of the HS with ASIII after lapping it.

 

[Huy]

Originally posted by Soliah
I rather use a trained finger on the heatsink.

This made me laugh, thanks Soliah!

 

[Soliah]

I forgot to add, and a thermometer

 

[jm1234567890]

Originally posted by Soliah
Where are you getting those temperature readings? Bios? Third party software - perhaps Sandra? Is that under heavy load (100% CPU use) or normal use?

I dislike taking temps from software or the bios as these can be rather unaccurate, depending on your motherboard (Abit especially). I rather use a trained finger on the heatsink.

The weather has been rather hot in the past few days too.

Trained finger on heatsink!!!
are you the walking talking temperature probe?

there are infrared dectectors, but bios is good enough

 

[Soliah]

Infrared thermometers are cool, but some motherboards determine temperature through a predetermined formula or something - I know Abit does this

 

[Huy]

Originally posted by Soliah
but some motherboards determine temperature through a predetermined formula or something - I know Abit does this

Abit mainboards come with Winbond Hardware Doctor to monitor temperatures, and I have temperature sensors on the CPU itself, two between the HSF and CPU.

Real-time monitoring/updating
Seems to do the job for me, and is reliable as far as I can tell.

 

[Soliah]

Many ABIT users are complaining about the apparently too high temperature readings on newer ABIT boards. ABIT has explained their position here. This is all fine with us, because we anyway dont trust in BIOS temperature readings. Following ABITs explanation the BIOS temperature is calculated by a formula and not actually measured. Touching the base of the heatsink with an experienced finger is probably a more reliable way to take them. The bottom line is: The Max 3 BIOS shows higher CPU temperatures than other 875P boards, but there is nothing to worry about.

From OCAU.

Edit: Perhaps your motherboard reports realistic temps but I do seem to remember awhile ago another fiasco with Abit reporting unusually high temperatures in an Atomic issue. But that was ages ago